Mounting an LED strip (LED) is a fairly simple task, and the effect obtained as a result of applying small efforts exceeds even the wildest expectations. After all, LEDs are 5 times brighter than conventional incandescent lamps, so they can serve not only as additional, but also as the main lighting.
LED strip selection
The brightness and color of the backlight are selected depending on individual preferences. But there is a characteristic that the interior does not affect - moisture resistance. You can determine it by marking IP, where after the letter designation are numbers. The first indicates the degree of protection against dust, dirt and mechanical damage. The second is on moisture resistance. Both indicators are evaluated on a scale from 0 to 9. So, the LED strip with the IP20 marking has poor protection against mechanical stress and a complete lack of waterproofing.
ATTENTION! To highlight kitchen cabinets, it is recommended to select tapes with a high level of resistance to pollution and humidity. IP 65 and above are suitable for installation in the kitchen. If the parameter value is lower, it is necessary to lay the LED in a special protective box.
For backlight strips, SMD LEDs are used. The number following this abbreviation indicates the size of the diodes. For example, the SMD 5050 indicates that elements of 5x5 mm in size are embedded in the tape.
The brightness of the light depends on the density of the diodes. They can be from 30 to 240 pcs. per linear meter. The more they are and the larger they are, the higher the power consumption of the tape, but also, accordingly, the brighter it shines.
REFERENCE! To organize a full-fledged illumination of the working area, it is recommended to select LEDs with 120-240 diodes per meter. For decorative purposes, 30-60 is enough.
Ribbons are also classified by the type of glow:
- Full-color - diodes consist of several crystals (up to 4) and can change color depending on user settings.
- Monochrome - bright single-chip diodes. Only light intensity adjustment is available.
The second type of ribbons is characterized by a narrow spectrum of luminescence, so they can distort the natural color of the products. Full-color has another drawback - when changing the spectrum, only a fraction of the crystals work, which reduces the brightness of the backlight.
The white monochrome is similar in principle to a conventional fluorescent lamp. Depending on which shade is selected, the glow temperature may also vary. As a result, the streams of light emanating from the tape are either warm or cold.
The circuit board is usually white. But there are various color schemes, so choosing the optimal one that harmoniously combines with furniture is not difficult.
Power supply selection
The LEDs are powered from a network voltage of 12 or 24 V, respectively, to connect to a conventional outlet you will need a converter. It is quite easy to determine the parameters of the transformer: the manufacturer indicates the power of a running meter of tape, from which it should be repelled in further calculations. If the value is 12 watts and the strip length is 4 m, then the total power will be 48 watts. To this number it is necessary to add another 20-25% of the stock. Therefore, in the design case, you need a 60 W transformer.
Power supplies vary in design. For the kitchen, it is better to choose airtight, in a plastic or aluminum case. Open blocks in a perforated case are cheap and powerful, but need additional waterproofing. If you are interested in network blocks that do not require installation, then you should pay attention to the fact that for each tape you will need a separate device.
ATTENTION! To increase the life of the LED, protection against voltage surges in the network will help.
When connecting multiple tapes, voltage amplifiers are needed. If a dimer is included in the electric circuit, it will be possible to adjust the brightness of the LED due to a smooth change in power.
What is required for mounting LED backlight
Preparation for the independent connection of additional lighting includes the acquisition of:
- LED coils;
- transformer (power supply unit);
- dimer;
- cable cross-section 0.74 mm.
If the LED strip is poorly protected from moisture and dust, you will also need an aluminum profile for attaching the LED.
In the process of installation work, you will need:
- soldering iron;
- solder and rosin;
- scissors;
- insulating tape.
Usually the back of the LED is self-adhesive. But if the reliability of such a fastener is in doubt, you can additionally fix it on the surface with the help of electrical mounting brackets. In the case of using a profile, a drill and self-tapping screws are useful.
DIY LED strip installation in the kitchen
Organization of additional lighting is a simple task, but requires attention. When connecting circuit elements, it is important to observe the polarity. The tape itself can not be twisted and wring. If you need to perform a sharp bend, then it makes sense to make a cut and connect the terminals with solder or connector.
Among other tricks of installation stand out:
- minimizing the number of adhesions;
- mandatory isolation of conductive paths at the junction;
- protection of the power supply from overheating;
- parallel connection of strips whose total length exceeds 5 m.
And most importantly: a flexible board is allowed to be cut only in places marked by the manufacturer. Otherwise, it may be damaged.
Installation procedure:
- Cutting the tape into strips of the required length and exposing the extreme contacts.
- Solder cables and insulate joints.
- LED fixing in the area reserved for it.
- Connecting wires to the dimmer (if necessary) and the power supply.
If all the work is carried out correctly, then the backlight will last no less than the period guaranteed by the LED manufacturers - about 10 years.
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